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福建土楼(南靖

时间:2022-04-04 理论教育 版权反馈
【摘要】:三、福建土楼(南靖、华安)福建土楼概述福建土楼是福建东南一带农村的客家民居,主要建于12到20世纪。土楼是漳州本土建筑的代表,漳州土楼的总数多达800多座。土楼顶层有射击口,用于防御外来袭击。联合国教科文组织将46座福建土楼列为世界遗产,其中的部分土楼在漳州。2008年又被列入世界遗产名录,是福建土楼的标志性建筑。

三、福建土楼(南靖、华安)

福建土楼概述

福建土楼是福建东南一带农村的客家民居,主要建于12到20世纪。土楼的前身是兵营、城堡或山寨。由于客家人多居住在野兽出没、盗匪四起的山区,他们建成的这种群居住房具有良好的防御功能。土楼是漳州本土建筑的代表,漳州土楼的总数多达800多座。

土楼规模宏大、造型封闭、结构坚固。大多数土楼呈长方形或圆形,楼高三至五层,其夯土承重墙非常厚实。比较古老的土楼包括内围楼和外围楼。大型的外围楼能容纳几百个房间,可供几百人居住。高大的土楼内部,厅堂、储藏室、水井、卧室等应有尽有,俨然一座小小的卫城。土楼内的每一寸空间都被充分利用,生活设施齐全,住户的日常起居都可以在楼内解决。

外围楼的建筑特别坚固,它是以生土为主要材料,混合石头、竹子、木头等随处可见的材料夯筑而成,墙厚可达6英尺,树枝、木条、竹片等常常用来加固墙体,因此土楼具有通风采光良好、防风、防震、冬暖夏凉的特点。土楼一般只有一个大门,其木门厚达4—5英寸,并覆以铁皮加固。土楼顶层有射击口,用于防御外来袭击。

联合国教科文组织将46座福建土楼列为世界遗产,其中的部分土楼在漳州。土楼堪称古代建筑的奇迹。

1.南靖土楼

各位团友大家好!今天我们游览的第一站是田螺坑土楼群,俗称“四菜一汤”。这个土楼群被誉为最美的土楼群。现在我们就去上观景台,从高处领略田螺坑土楼群独具特色的魅力。

大家知道田螺坑的名字是怎么来的吗?有一种说法是当地山路都是一圈又一圈的,就像田螺壳一样。另一种是说法来自一个民间传说——田螺姑娘的故事。美丽的田螺姑娘有一次被一个青年搭救,后嫁给他为妻。这个幸运的年轻人据说就是土楼人家黄氏家族的祖先。

现在我们到了可以俯瞰“四菜一汤”的上观景台。大家看,这个土楼群坐落在半山坡上,共有5座楼,一座方形楼位于当中,四座圆形楼围绕方楼,形成“四菜一汤”的格局。

中间的这座方形楼叫做步云楼,建于1796年。步云楼占地1050平方米,楼高3层,每层26间,设4部楼梯,每层有通廊。从门厅到后厅有3层台阶,寓意步步高升。水井设在楼外,底层四角的房间各开一窗,这在土楼建筑中比较特殊。

右边的圆楼叫振昌楼,建于1930年,也是三层结构,房间数量和步云楼一样。看,中厅与大门并不对称,根据中国传统,这样才能“富不露白”。楼内也没有水井。

左边最外面那栋椭圆形楼是建于1966年的文昌楼。文昌楼比步云楼大一些,同样是3层,房间数量也更多。和步云楼一样,楼里也设有射击口。内院有一口水井。底层土墙厚1.2米,能挡住枪弹。门框、门槛用大石砌成,门扇厚10厘米,门闩能牢牢卡住大门。

靠我们最近这栋圆形土楼是和昌楼,始建于约600年前。共分3层,每层22间,楼内同样设有4个射击口。底墙和其他4幢楼一样也是厚达1.2米。这幢楼原来是方形,20世纪30年代被土匪烧毁,1953年在原址上重建时改为圆楼。

靠它左前方这栋是瑞云楼,建于1936年。瑞云寓意吉祥富贵。瑞云楼的结构、大小、楼层和房间数量大体和步云楼一样。

5幢土楼,“四菜一汤”,依山而建,与层层梯田相呼应,有趣的是,土楼群边上那两条长方形土楼,就像一双筷子搁在那里。世界文化遗产标志恰巧也是一个方圆图案的浓缩,真是一个巧合。

各位团友,现在留15分钟时间给大家照相。第二根栏柱是最佳摄影位置和角度,请注意安全,谢谢。

各位团友,现在我们前往下观景台。土楼中间是露天大天井,房门和窗户都朝天井开,土楼外墙和内墙是同心圆砌成的一段段圆弧,房间成放射状排列,像柑橘那样一瓣瓣围聚成一周。天井里有一口井,楼内有石磨、风车等农具。土楼的底层一般是厨房、客厅、厅堂和楼梯间。顶屋一般不装天花板,这样如果什么地方出现漏雨、裂缝,都看得清楚,便于及时维修。自从600年前这些土楼兴建以来,已有26代黄氏家族传人在此繁衍生息。

田螺坑土楼群以其独特的视觉魅力和历史价值于2001年被评为国家重点文物保护单位。2008年又被列入世界遗产名录,是福建土楼的标志性建筑。

下面请随我参观裕昌楼,从田螺坑驱车5分钟即可到达。

大家看,裕昌楼的外墙斑驳陆离。它建于1308年,是土楼王国现存最古老的土楼了。裕昌楼呈圆形,5层,每层约54开间。它不是一姓一宗所建,而是5个氏族集资共建,划分为5片区,分区而居。中庭还有一座圆楼,是全楼的中心,也是社会活动的场所。里面是上堂即祖堂,红白喜事都在此举行。门内地面用鹅卵石镶嵌成五行图案,是中国建筑文化内涵丰富的表现。

大家看,三楼至五楼的木头廊柱明显向左或向右倾斜,因此这座楼有个别名叫“东歪西倒楼”。什么原因造成的呢?原来当年建土楼的木工师傅为了显示自己高超的技术,利用力学原理,故意把廊柱倾斜。同时他找来建造裕昌楼的股东,向他们解释必须将廊柱倾斜,这样才能人丁兴旺、事业发达。虽然楼体看起来歪歪倒倒,这座高楼经受了几百年时间的考验,仍然屹立不倒,真是奇迹。不过为了安全起见,我们限制大队游客同时上楼参观。

好的,现在我们去看看此楼的另一奇特之处——厨房里的水井。土楼底层的后半圈有25个厨房,每个厨房灶台边都有一个独立的水井。在福建土楼里,只有裕昌楼才有这么便利的取水条件。为什么人们在室内挖井呢?原来这一排的厨房下面刚好是地下山泉的流经之地,泉水离地表不深,无需深挖即可见水。井凿于灶台边上,用长柄勺即可舀水,极为便利。而且此井旱不枯,涝不溢,一年四季清澈甘冽。

好了,裕昌楼讲解暂时告一段落,大家现在可以在此楼自由活动,照相、买点纪念品等,20分钟后在门外集合。

Tulou-Unique Earth Buildings in Fujian(Nanjing&Hua’an Counties)

Overview of Fujian Tulou Earth Buildings

Fujian Tulou is an unique type of rural dwellings of the Hakka in southeastern Fujian Province.They were mostly built between the 12thand the 20thcenturies.The original buildings were used as living barracks,castles or strongholds.As most Hakka resided in mountains,these communal houses were built to provide protection against bandits and wild animals.Tulou represents a vernacular architecture specific to Zhangzhou,where there are more than eight hundred of these Earth Buildings in total.

ATulou is usually a large,enclosed and fortified earthen building,most commonly rectangular or circular in configuration,with very thick load-bearing rammed earth walls between three and five stories high.The older examples of this style of construction consist of interior buildings enclosed by huge peripheral ones holding hundreds of rooms and dwellers.With all the halls,storehouses,wells and bedrooms inside,a huge tower-like earthen building functions almost as a small fortified city.Clans living inside utilized every square inch of space for their domestic use,so that they did not have to leave the buildings.

The fortified outer structures are formed by compacting earth,mixed with stone,bamboo,wood and other readily available materials,to form walls up to 6 feet thick.Branches,strips of wood and bamboo chips are often laid in the wall as additional reinforcement.The result is a well-lit,well-ventilated,windproof and earthquake-proof building that is warm in winter and cool in summer.Tulous usually have only one main gate,guarded by 4-5-inch-thick wooden doors reinforced with an outer shell of iron plate.The top level of these earth buildings has gun holes for defensive purposes.

A total of 46 Fujian Tulou sites,including some in Zhangzhou,have been inscribed by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites.Generally speaking,they are considered a wonder of ancient architecture.

1.Nanjing Earth Buildings

Hello,everyone!Today our first stop of the Tulou trip is the Tianluokeng Earthen Building cluster.Figuratively nicknamed as“Four Dishes and One Soup”,the cluster is honored as the most attractive Earth Buildings in the country.Now let’s set foot on the upper viewing plat form to appreciate the charm of it.

Do you know how Tianluokeng,or the River Snail Hole,got its name?Some people say it is because of the local winding mountain roads that look like a river snail shell.Some others would rather believe a folktale that involves a beautiful fairy of river snails.She was saved by a young man and then married him.This lucky young man is said to be the forefather of the Huang’s family that built these earthen dwellings.

Now we are on the viewing plat for mover looking the cluster that situates halfway up the mountain.It consists of five Tulou buildings,1 square building in the center,and 4 round ones around the square one,forming a pattern of“Four Dishes and One Soup”.

The square Buyunlou,literally translated as a Building Reaching the Cloud,sits at the center of the cluster.Built in 1796,the 3-floored building covers an area of 1050 square meters.There are 26 rooms on each floor,four sets of stairs,and a go-around corridor in front of the rooms on each floor.You’ll have to climb 3 steps from the entrance hall to the back hall,a good wish of promotion step by step by the builders of the house.A well is built outside the building,and 4 windows are opened in the 4 rooms in the corners,which is rare among other Earth Buildings.

The round Tulou to the right is Zhenchang Building.Built in 1930,it is also a 3-floored Tulou with the same number of rooms as Buyunlou.See,the central hall does not face the frontgate straightly,which,according to Chinese tradition,can avoid the flowing-out of the wealth.No well is found inside either.

The oval Tulou to the left is Wenchanglou,built in 1966.It is larger than Buyunlou,also 3-floored,but with more rooms.Gun-ports are also found here,as in Buyunlou.A well is built in the yard.The earthen wall of the first floor is 1.2 meters thick,which makes it strong enough to stop outside shooting.The door frame and threshold are made of stones.The door leafs are 10 centimeters thick,and the bolts can tightly fasten the door.

The nearest round building is Hechang Building first built around 600 years ago.Each of the 3 floors has 22 rooms,and they are also equipped with 4 gun-ports.The wall of the first floor is1.2 meters thick,as the other 4 buildings of the cluster.It used to be a square building,and in 1930s,it was burned down by bandits.In 1953 it was rebuilt in the present round shape.

The one to its left is Ruiyun Lou,built in 1936.Ruiyun,or auspicious clouds,signifies wealth and auspice in China.It is roughly the same as Buyunlou in size,floors,rooms and structure.

The five Tulous built on the mountain slope among terraced fields look just like 4 dishes and a soup,and interestingly the 2 parallel long Earth Buildings beside the cluster look like a pair of chopsticks.Also the sign of the World Cultural Heritage is a combination of circles and squares.What a coincidence!

Ladies and gentlemen,you’ll have 15 minutes for taking photos.The second column is the best place to take photos.Please be careful!Thank you!

Nowwe’removing to the lower viewing platform.In the center of the earthen house is an open-air courtyard,toward which all the doors and windows are facing.Both the interior and exterior walls are circular arcs in a concentric circle,and the rooms are neatly arranged around the courtyard like the inside of a tangerine.There is a well in the courtyard.Farm tools like stone mills and windmills are found in the house.The first floor usually consist of kitchens,living rooms,halls and staircases.No ceiling is stalled so that leaks can be found for timely maintenance.Since the first construction of these buildings 600 years ago,26 generations of the Huang’s clan have been living here.

With impressive and unique charm and high historical value,Tianluokeng cluster was included in 2001 as a key historical site under state protection.In 2008,the landmark building in Fujian was inscribed in the World Heritage List.

Our next stop of Tulou trip is Yuchanglou.It’s only 5 minutes ride from Tianluokeng.

The outer wall of Yuchanglou is rather old.Built in 1308,it is the oldest Tulou in the kingdomof Earth Buildings.The round building has 5 floors,and each has roughly 54 rooms.Five clans,instead of one,pooled money to build the big house,which they shared in 5 separate parts.Centering in the courtyard is another round earthern building serving also as a public activity center.Inside it there is a ceremonial hall,where weddings and funerals are held.The floor of the hall is covered with cobblestones in the pattern of the Five Elements,viz.metal,wood,water,fire and earth,an expression of cultural richness in Chinese architecture.

Look there,the wooden pillars on the 3rd,4thand 5th floor are noticeably leaning left or right,giving the building a nickname“the Leaning Building”.It’s said when the earthen building was built,the carpenter,in order to show his super techniques,deliberately leaned the pillars by applying the principles of structural mechanics.In the meantime,he explained to the house owners about the leaning pillars as a must for the sake of a thriving family and prosperous business!In spite of its apparent infirmity,this tall building has miraculously withstood the test of time over hundreds of years.But visitors in large groups are not allowed to crowd into the building now.

Well,I’ll show you something really peculiar in Yuchanglou,the wells inside the kitchens.Each of the 25 kitchens on the ground floor at the back half of the circle has a private water-well beside the stove.This is the only Tulou in all Fujian with such convenient water supply.Why did people dig indoor wells?It’s because the underground springs happen to run under the kitchens not deep from the surface of the ground.People can easily scoop the water up from the wells simply with a ladle!Besides,water in the indoor wells never dries or overflows,and tastes fresh and sweet all the year round!

Well,so much for Yuchanglou.You can stay for a while around the building,and we’ll meet outside the building in 20 minutes.Thank you.

Vocabulary:

barrack   n.营房

stronghold   n.要塞

vernacular   a.本国的

configuration   n.结构

ram   v.夯实(土等)

peripheral   adj.外围的

ventilate   v.通风

cluster   n.(同类物聚集的)群

bolt   n.门闩

arc   n.弧

pool   v.汇集

2.华安大地土楼群

欢迎来到华安大地土楼群!接下来约2小时时间里,我带大家去看看华安县大地村的土楼群。大家知道,福建土楼2008年已被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。今天的游览包括二宜楼、南洋楼、东阳楼,它们都是福建土楼的标志性建筑。

好了各位来宾,我们到了二宜楼的大门口。眼前这座雄伟壮观的土楼就是二宜楼,它享有“神州第一圆楼”“土楼之王”的美誉。从外表上看,它和附近其他圆形土楼很相似,但是二宜楼具有更加丰富的文化、艺术、建筑以及历史价值。研究福建土楼的专家总结出了二宜楼的几个特色,待会儿我会一一给大家讲解。

早在1992年,二宜楼就率先从福建3000多座土楼中成功突围,成为第一个受到国家重点保护的土楼。它占地9300平方米,在列入世界遗产名录的圆形土楼中,它的单体面积最大。二宜楼于1740年开始动工兴建,前后历经30年才竣工。楼的创建者叫蒋士熊,二宜楼的兴建是为了聚族而居、防御匪患和野兽。从两百年多前一直到现在,楼内居住的都是蒋氏后代子孙。

“二宜”两字寓意这座楼依山傍水,环境优美,适宜人们居住的意思。

二宜楼的防卫非常严密。大家请看,它的外墙高达16米,顶层设有瞭望口和射击口。再看二宜楼特别厚的石台基,它是用5米多高的块石和花岗条石砌成,露出地面部分有2米多高,而深埋在地下的部分有3米以上。大家请注意石基中部这样一个设计,猜猜这个洞是干什么的。我们把它称为“传声洞”,相当于我们现在用的门铃。它的构造是外面小,里面宽,这样的设计枪炮打不进,箭射不进,而声音却能传进去。请跟我从大门步入楼内,整栋楼共有3个内门,1个大门及2个边门。大门外层铆上了一层铁皮,以防火攻。看这圆拱形石门框的腰部两边各有一个门闩洞,如果大门被人从外面撞击,就可以在下部再横上一根门闩。

二宜楼的外墙厚达2.53米,在福建土楼中无楼能比。我们现在看到的天井不仅起到采光通风的效果,也便于排水。

各位来宾,我们现在所站的位置,就是二宜楼蒋氏家族公共活动的大内院。看,这边有两口水井,这就是几百年来楼内的饮用水来源。这两口井的奇特之处在于两口井水温不同,是因为井水来自不同的地下泉眼。

我现在站在这里说话,大家能感受到我的声音和刚刚有什么区别吗?我脚下的这块石头是二宜楼的最中心点,人站在这里说话,具有扩音效果,多么神奇的扩音系统啊。

我们站在这里仔细环视二宜楼。它分为内外双环,整座楼分为12个可互相连通的住户单元,房间像桔瓣一样环绕排列。每户都有独立的单元、天井、大门和楼梯,外环楼四楼有个隐蔽环形通廊,宽达5米,将12个单元的后门连通起来。这样的建筑形式在土楼当中是很少见的。

各位来宾,下面我们要去参观二宜楼的公共厅堂。门口的这对抱鼓青石,雕刻着云龙、祥云等图案,寓意雄厚财富和多子多福。小天井里的排水系统考虑周密,设计科学

这一层大厅是蒋家的议事厅,也是办理红白喜事的地方。二宜楼拥有丰富的彩绘和壁画。请大家抬头往上看这些彩绘。楼内这种彩绘和壁画多达966处,还有数量众多的楹联以及大小木雕。楼内的一些彩绘壁画在2000年进行了维护。

现在请跟我上三楼。这里是私塾古迹,孩子们以前就在这里读书。这里是观看院内全景的最佳场所。二宜楼的内环只有一层的高度,作为居民的餐厅和厨房,外环高达16米,分为4层,主要是卧室和客厅。

顶层四楼是祖堂,是庆寿、举行婚礼的场所。中间的画像是二宜楼创建者蒋士熊夫妇。这边的两幅彩绘体现出主人对子孙的期望。这幅画讲了这样一个故事:1400年前,山东有一位叫张公艺的百岁老人,家里五世同堂,且家庭关系十分和睦,被传为美谈。当时的皇帝得知后亲自登门拜访,询问缘由。老人写下一百个“忍”字,意思是大家庭难免有纠纷,一旦发生纠纷,应隐忍不发,以顾大局。皇帝深受启发,赐给他一幅匾额以示敬意。蒋士熊显然希望他的子孙后代居住在一个屋檐下要多些忍耐,以和为贵、和睦相处。

而这边的幅彩绘则通过描述唐朝的历史故事表现了一种欢聚一堂、和乐喜庆的场面。

现在我们走的这条走廊就是刚才所说的隐蔽通廊,它可连通每个单元的后门。看这些窗口,它们都呈内宽外窄的反喇叭形。隐蔽通廊和这些窗口的设计主要是为了防止外敌攻击。大家从窗口往外看,远处的南阳楼和东阳楼可以看得清清楚楚。

再看这单元之间的隔墙,墙体厚实,隔音防火。外侧墙上的这些洞是灯龛,用来放置蜡烛和油灯。修理工要维修瓦片的时候也可以直接踩着灯龛上去修理。这些设计细节让专家们一致认为二宜楼是设计最科学的土楼。

从观景窗往外看,二宜楼的选址非常考究。周围青山绿水环绕,是风水宝地,最适宜居住。

在这个房间里不只有精美的中国山水画,还有一些1931年和1932年的纽约时报呢。这证明了蒋家子孙早在那个年代就走出国门,带回了西方文化。

房间外面我们可以看到这副对联,大意是客人来了,主人应该起立迎接,以免失礼。这是二宜楼的主人在提醒子孙对客人要热情,不能失礼。

请大家随我下楼。你们注意到每个单元门上都有一对木雕了吗?这些木雕不但是装饰物,实际上它们还起到了门牌号码的作用。

我们现在从二宜楼的一个边门出去。在门的上方石匾上刻着“清乾隆庚寅岁葭月立”的纪时款,这是二宜楼的建造年份。这在华安土楼里非常常见。

二宜楼至今保存完好,30多户共200多居民仍然住在这里。楼内保存完好的清朝时期彩绘和壁画在福建众多土楼当中也非常少见。

下面我带大家去参观南阳楼,它距离二宜楼约1000米。

福建土楼博物馆于2007年6月在南阳楼开馆。展馆占地1200平方米,共设展室33间,分为4个展区,展出1000多件展品。这4个展区分别是:土楼民居、土楼建筑、土楼民俗和关爱土楼。目前,楼内一至三层单元住房内摆设着保存完好的家具、生活用具、生产工具等土楼人使用的东西。

华安土楼以丰富的文化内涵、独特的建筑风格和艺术价值著称。现在我们就来参观一下馆内的展示,再来看南阳楼的建筑特色。请跟我来。

首先我们看到的第一个展区是土楼民居。设置了厨房、餐厅、客厅、卧室、婚房以及书房、私塾、储藏室、纺间等空间,全面展示了土楼人家的生产生活状况。

各位如果对土楼建筑特色感兴趣的话不妨到位于三楼的第二个展示区看看。我们在这里可以了解土楼建筑历史、类型、代表建筑、建造技术、内部装饰、功能,甚至土楼的风水寓意。

第三展区是土楼民俗展区,介绍了土楼人敬老尊贤、节庆婚礼和民俗祭祀等三个方面的内容,体现了土楼人重视教育、忠孝仁义的传统中国思想文化。

最后一个展区主要关于土楼的宣传和保护。

现在我们去大院,看看建于1817年的南阳楼的建筑特色。南阳楼是二宜楼的一个缩影,在结构、布局和功能上非常相似,但它在木雕、石刻等方面比二宜楼要更胜一筹。门墙为细磨的花岗岩砌筑,大家看这个门板,相当厚重,不易着火。楼上三个门顶都放置水箱,当遇到外敌火攻的时候,可用于防御。

门前这口池塘,整体看是个半月形池塘,蓄水部分是方形。半月形代表谦虚,而方形在中国可比做古代的官印。

我们今天的土楼之旅最后一站是东阳楼,它和南阳楼建于同一年。这三座土楼都是蒋家人所建。东阳楼据说是最宜居的土楼,所以我们就重点关注一下它的宜居性。

东阳楼呈方形,有房间36间,采光非常好。正对大门的一楼后厅为婚庆场所,二楼后厅是祖堂。和南阳楼比起来,东阳楼的防御性较弱,但居住起来显然更为舒适,可能是因为建楼的时候来骚扰的土匪少了吧。

请随我上楼。这些房间看起来有些偏窄,但层高达3.8米,居住起来就没有了压抑感。现代住宅追求的三大一小的标准,即厅大、厨房大、卫生间大、卧室小,华安山区的这座东阳楼在两百年前就已经做到了。厨房和餐厅与卧室隔开,居住起来更加舒适。

现在我们坐下来,品尝几杯土楼人给我们准备的铁观音茶,你也可以和楼内的居民聊聊他们的土楼和居住在土楼里惬意的生活。

2.Hua’an Dadi Earth Buildings

Welcome to the Hua’an Dadi Earth Buildings!In the next 2 hours,I’ll show you around the Earth Buildings in Dadi Village of Hua’an County.As you might know,Fujian’s Earth Buildings were inscribed into the World Heritage List by UNESCO in 2008.The 2-hour trip today will include the Eryi Building,Nanyang Building and Dongyang Building,all typical earthen dwellings in Fujian.

Now we’re in front of the Eryi Building,which enjoys a reputation of being the“No.1 Round Building in China”,and“King of Earth Buildings”.From outside,Eryi Tulou is no different from other round Earth Buildings in Fujian.But inside,the building is of high cultural,artistic,architectural and historical value.Experts have summarized some special characteristics of the impressive building,and I’ll explain themone by one.

In 1992,Eryi Tulou stood out from over 3000 of Fujian’s Earth Buildings,and became the first earthen building kept as a cultural relic under state protection.Occupying a floor space of9300 square meters,Eryi Tulou is also the largest round earthen building that is included in the World Heritage List.The construction started in 1740,and lasted for 30 years.Mr.Jiang Shixiong,the first owner of the house,built it to provide protection against bandits and wild animals for his clansmen living together.Since then the dwellers in the building have all been Jiang’s descendants.

The building’s name Eryi indicates that the building enjoys a pleasant natural environment combining the mountain and the river and is therefore suitable for living.

Eryilou is heavily fortified.The 16-meter outer wall has lookout windows and gun-ports on top of it,and the thick wall base is made of square granite stones 5 meters tall,2 meters above the ground and 3 buried under it.See the holes in the wall base?Being narrow outside and wide inside,these holes actually serve as doorbells,and with such a shape,these holes can avoid any shooting from outside.Please follow me inside.The building has 3 inner doors,1 gate and 2 side doors.The entrance door is covered with an iron sheet to protect the building against fire attacks,and two wooden bars are kept in the holes of the stone door frame to strengthen the doors in case they are bashed from outside.

The outer wall of Eryilou is 2.53 meters thick,making it the strongest outer wall among other Earth Buildings.The courtyard in front of us is for ventilation and drainage.

Now we are in the inner yard which was used for public activities of Jiang’s clan.The two wells here are the sources of drinkable water for the residents of the building and have been used for hundreds of years.Interestingly,the water temperature of the two wells is different because the well water comes from different springs.

Do you notice the difference in the loudness of my voice when I’m standing on this stone?This stone lies in the very center of the round building,so people standing here will have their sound amplified.What a nice natural amplifier!

Let’s take a closer look at Eryilou.It consists of an outer ring and an inner ring.Divided into 12 living units connected to each other,the building has rooms lying like the inside of a tangerine.Each of the households occupies a private unit with a private courtyard,entrance and stairs,and on the 4thfloor of the outer ring building there is a hidden vestibule of 5 meters wide,which connects every unit by a back door.Such architectural form is rarely seen among the other earthen dwellings.

Next we’ll visit the public hall of Eryilou.The two stone drums in front of the gate are carved with auspicious clouds and dragons for wealth and prosperity.The drainage system here is also scientifically designed,as you can see in the small courtyards.

This hall is used for serious meetings of the Jiang family,and for having ceremonies.Eryilou boasts a wealth of colorful paintings and murals on the walls and ceilings.Above our head you will see on the ceilings these color paintings;there are a total of 966 of the min the entire building.Besides,there are couplets on pillars,wood carvings,and wall paintings everywhere.Some paintings were restored in 2000.

Please follow me upstairs.The third floor is a private school for children.It offers the best view of the yard.The one-floored inner ring of the building is used as kitchens and dining rooms,and the 16-meter 4-floored outer ring is for bedrooms and living rooms.

This area on the 4thfloor is the ceremonial hall used for birthdays and weddings.The couple on the paintings in the center is the founders of the house.These two paintings show Jiang’s expectations for his descendants.This one tells a story of a one-hundred-year old man Mr.Zhang Gongyi in Shandong Province about1400 years ago.He had a big family of five generations that lived together harmoniously.The emperor was impressed by this harmony and asked him how he managed to do that.Mr.Zhang wrote 100 Chinese characters of“Ren”,or endurance,as an answer,which meant you’d have to endure when any conflicts ever occured in such a big family.The emperor seemed to learn something from it and sent a plaque to honor this old man.Jiang obviously wished to inspire his descendants living under the same roof to restrain themselves and be more patient when conflicts happen.

And this painting shows a happy and harmonious family gathering by telling a historical story in the Tang Dynasty.

This is the hidden vestibule that connects each apartment’s back doors.Look at the windows that take the shape of a reversed trumpet.Both the vestibule and the windows were designed to fight against attacking enemies.Look outside the window,and you will see the distant Nanyanglou Building and Dongyanglou Building.

The thick earthen walls that separate the units are soundproof and fireproof.The holes on the outside of the walls were used to place candles and oil lamps,and also used for roof maintenance men to step on.These clever designs win the building a fame of the most scientifically designed earthen building.

From the viewing window,we can see the carefully chosen environment of the building.Surrounded by green mountains and running rivers,which is believed by Chinese as good geomantic omen,the building indeed is a best place to live in.

In this room,besides Chinese paintings,you will also find some copies of the New York Times published in 1931 and 1932!This proves that Jiang’s descendants went abroad as early as the 1930s and brought back western culture.

See the couplet outside the room.It roughly means when guests come,the hosts should rise to meet them,and that’s how hosts can avoid being impolite.The owner of the house thus reminded his descendants to be hospitable to guests.

Please follow me downstairs.You might notice the pairs of wood carvings on the doors.They are used not only as ornaments,but also signs to distinguish different doors.

Let’s exit through one of the side doors.On the stone plaque up the door,the year and month of construction was carved.It’s a common practice in Hua’an Tolou.

Eryilou is kept in good condition and houses over 200 people from more than thirty families.Its well-preserved color paintings of murals in Qing Dynasty are extremely rare among the numerous Tulou of southwest Fujian.

Next I’ll take you to Nanyanglou about1000 meters away fromhere.

The Fujian Museum of Earth Buildings is located in Nanyanglou.The museum opened to public in June 2007.The 1200-square-meter museum displays over 1000 exhibits in 33 rooms divided into 4 sections:Tulou residential houses,Tulou architectures,Hakka folk customs,and Tulou protection.The exhibition rooms in the 3 floors showcase the well-preserved antique furniture,household utensils,production tools etc.,that have been used by Tulou people.

Hua’an Tulou are well known for their cultural richness,unique architecture styles and artistic value.Let’s first visit the displays before we appreciate the architecture.This way please.

The first section of the display is about the Earth Buildings as residential houses.Here you will see kitchens,dining halls,sitting rooms,bedrooms,rooms for newly-weds,aswell as studies,private schools,storage rooms,and weaving workshops that display vivid scenes of the Tulou people’s life and production.

If you’re interested in architecture styles of Tulou,please proceed to the second section of the display on the 3rd floor.There you will learn the history of Tulou buildings,types,models,construction techniques,inner decoration,various functions,even the Fengshui interpretation contained in Tulou.

In the 3rd section about the Hakka folk customs in Tulou Dwellings,you will find exhibits about respecting the aged and wise,festivals and wedding ceremonies,and folk sacrificial ceremony,reflections on the advocating of education,filial piety and righteousness that are promoted by traditional Chinese thoughts and culture.

The last part of the exhibition mainly deals with the promotion and protection of Tulou.

Now let’s go to the courtyard to appreciate the architecture of Nanyanglou built in 1817.It is modeled on Eryilou in its structure,with similar layout and functions,but the wood and stone carvings are considered more impressive.The wall base is built with fine granite rocks,and the entrance door leafs are made of thick and heavy wood that does not catch fire easily.Water tanks are placed on top of the 3 doors,which are also used to prevent fire attacks.

The pond in front of the entrance takes the shape of a crescent moon,with a square reservoir in it.The crescent moon symbolizes modesty,and the square is compared to an official seal in ancient China.

Our last stop of the Tulou trip today is Dongyanglou,which was built in the same year as Nanyanglou.Actually all the 3 Tulou were built by the Jiang family.Dongyandlou is said to be the most inhabitable earthen house,so let’s concentrate on the livability of it.

The 36 rooms in the square building are all well-lit,as we can see.The back hall opposite the entrance is for wedding ceremonies,and the hall on the 2nd floor is an ancestral hall.Compared with Nanyanglou,Dongyanglou is less defensive and more comfortable,partly because there were fewer bandits around at the time when it was constructed.

Please follow me upstairs.These rooms may look narrow,but the floor-to-floor height reaches 3.8 meters,so they give no sense of oppression.With spacious sitting rooms,kitchens,bathrooms and small bedrooms,the over 200-year old house can even meet the standard of today’s modern residential houses.The kitchens and dining rooms are separated from bedrooms,making life more comfortable for the Tulou people.

Now let’s sit down and sip a cup of Tieguany in Tea served by the Tulou dwellers.You can even have a talk with these hospitable people about their house and the easy life here!

Vocabulary:

fortified   v.加固

amplify   v.扩大

plaque   n.匾

vestibule   n.通廊

ancestral hall   祖堂

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